Current Skincare Goals: January 2018

As I enter in to my 3rd full year of being truly invested in skincare, I’m already seeing several differences in my approach. When I first started on r/AsianBeauty, I wanted to use everyone’s favorite products at the time–The Face Shop Foaming Cleanser and Cleaning Oil–both horrendous products for my skin type which is dry/sensitive. I damaged my moisture barrier, among other struggles and had to learn the hard way of how to treat my skin (i.e. not a dumping ground for products)

Currently I am trying to only introduce new products on an as needed basis, not just because I feel like opening it and having 6 toners going at once. Not only is it unnecessary from a routine standpoint,  it isn’t financially viable to purchase so many products to review or attempt to keep up with others. I also feel the beauty industry is run amok with consumerism and products you *need* to have *right now* which isn’t true, just tactical marketing.

Skincare goals:

  • Getting Rid of PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
  • Preservation/suncare/fine line care
  • Hydration

Fading PIH/dark marks on dark skin

Being black/African American and fading dark spots can be the bane of your exisitence.  The first and most important rule of dealing with PIH is be patient because getting rid of it takes forever.

What is PIH? 

Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, usually occurs after trauma to the epidermis and includes cuts, scrapes, acne. It can be really distressing, shameful, and overall difficult to suffer from the condition, especially with darker skin.

What are the best ingredients or practices for combating PIH/dark marks?

img_8666

  • Hydroquinine: available OTC up to 2% and via prescription 3-4%; now it is often used with tretnoin, glycolic acid, vitamin C, retinol or steroids and can take 1-3 months to show improvements (Grimes, 2010)
  • Alpha hydroxy acid: reviewed in Managing Ingrown Facial Hair blog post
  • Salicylic acid: reviewed in Managing Ingrown Facial Hair blog post
  • Kojic acid
  • Vitamin C: Melano CC spot treatment
  • Sun protection should always be used regardless, but especially when using products like the above that increase photosensitivity. My favorite sunscreen is Nivea Sun Protect Water Gel Super SPF 50 PA+++

Preservation

I’d say I’m pretty good about suncare and applying my BHA, AHA on affected areas but I think I will be upping my game with facials, topical retinoids, and more diligent use of sun protection. My BIL got me Missha’s sunscreen in a pump so we shall see what the white cast situation is or if I will need to stick with my Neutrogena body sunscreen. I will also do my best to wear hats when outside and have snagged a few from Daiso for <$5/each.

  • Paula’s Choice Retinol
  • Dr. Brandt Products
  • Dr. Dennis Gross
  • Peter Thomas Roth
  • Foreo Luna 2 for Sensitive Skin

Hydration

I like to keep things “on brand” so to speak and continue to use layering toners, emulsions, and essences as a primary method for retaining moisture into my skin. I have focused less on introducing a ton of new products and more of utilizing what is already in my stash.

Toners

img_8665

  • Hanyul Essential Rice Skin Softener (AM)
  • 23.5N Oriental Beauty Tea Balancing Toner (PM)
  • 107 Rose Vinegar Water
  • Reise Rice Extract Hydrating Toner
  • Thank You Farmer True Water Deep Toner

all of these products can be purchased from Beautibi

Emulsions

img_8664

  • it’s skin green tea watery emulsion (AM/PM)
  • Dr Jart Ceramidin Liquid (AM/PM)
  • Mediheal NMF Aquaring Emulsion (PM)
  • Sulwahsoo Essential Balancing Emulsion EX (PM)

Essences

img_8661

  • Simplistic Wonder Essence
  • belif Hungarian water essence (PM)
  • 107 Coreflex Cream Essence (AM)
  • 23.5N Rice Soothing Essence (PM)
  • SKII Treatment Essence

Ingredients

  • Squalane
  • Honey/Propolis

 

Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional so all practices, opinions, and otherwise are  purely anecdotal and based on my personal experience. Please consult your healthcare provider if you are looking to treat any medical conditions.


Sources

Grimes, Pearl E., ed. Aesthetics and cosmetic surgery for darker skin types. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins, 2008: 307-8.

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3 Replies to “Current Skincare Goals: January 2018”

    1. I really enjoyed the liquid and it took me about 6 months to finish one bottle with 2x daily use. It’s really hydrating without being greasy and it doesn’t smell strongly either which I also appreciate.

      Like

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